Just eight years ago, Greece hosted the Olympics and the national team were crowned the football champions of Europe.
Now facilities are falling into disrepair and teams are resorting to desperate measures to survive.
But at least in this region, two clubs have been spared, thanks to their unconventional new backers.
In this unusual story, perhaps both sides win. Local football is given a much-needed boost, while a little more custom is drummed up for the undertaker, and for the brothel madam.
www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-20732325